gobby peeking out between rows of replica terracotta warriors at a photo spot in xi'an

has anyone ever snuck into the terracotta army?

the last time i went to see the terracotta army, i got a very unprofessional tour guide. bad at dates, great at gossip. somewhere along the pit, the guide leaned in and told me this.

a foreigner loved the warriors so much that he dressed up as one, head to toe, climbed into the pit and stood there with them. for a long time. nobody noticed.

then a tourist said, a little too loudly: i think that one just moved.

did someone really sneak into the terracotta army pit?

mostly. in september 2006, a 26-year-old german art student named pablo wendel brought a homemade warrior suit to the museum in a suitcase, changed, jumped the barrier and joined the ranks. he said he'd always dreamed of standing among the real ones (al jazeera). a guard admitted they had trouble finding him at first, because he looked too much like a terracotta warrior (nbc news).

a man in a homemade terracotta warrior costume standing in the pit, surrounded by police and museum staff, xi'an 2006
pablo, about to be un-recruited. 2006.

the papers say he lasted several minutes and it was the police who spotted him, not a tourist. my guide said it was much longer. i prefer the guide's version. he didn't break anything, got a lecture, lost his costume and went back to art school.

he's not the only one who couldn't keep his hands to himself.

who stole a terracotta warrior's thumb?

in december 2017, part of the army was on loan to the franklin institute in philadelphia, which threw an ugly sweater party. after the party, a 24-year-old guest wandered into the closed-off exhibit, went for a selfie with a warrior, and the warrior's thumb came off. he put it in his pocket and went home. the museum didn't notice it was missing for about two weeks, until the fbi got involved and the security footage led to him (the china project).

2,200 years in the ground, one ugly sweater party.

it's not always funny. in may 2025, a 30-year-old man climbed over the rail and the safety net at pit 3 and jumped in, and two warriors were damaged. police said he had a mental illness (the art newspaper). the legal way to join the ranks is the replica photo spot. i did that. that's me at the top of this page. spot the one that isn't clay.

who found the terracotta army, and how many mr. yangs are there?

the army was found by accident. in march 1974, during a drought, a farmer named yang zhifa was digging a well and hit a headless clay figure. he thought he'd found an old kiln. a co-worker joked they could swap the bronze bits for tobacco. yang's plan, if it all turned out to be junk, was to dump it in the river. they hauled three cartloads to the local museum and got 10 yuan a cart (swissinfo).

the farmers lost their land to the dig, and for years they sat in the museum shops signing books for tourists. bill clinton asked yang for his autograph. one of the other farmers learned to write his own name just for that job. and the village says at least one man signing under a banner with a clinton photo was never there that day (south china morning post).

an older man in a mask and glasses signing a terracotta army photo book at a desk in xi'an, september 2022
a mr. yang, september 2022.

i bought a signed book from a mr. yang in september 2022, in the middle of the pandemic. a friend who went years earlier says her mr. yang looked like a different man. i don't know how many mr. yangs there are. i know the book was expensive.

which movie turned zhang yimou into a terracotta warrior?

my favorite terracotta warrior is fake, and he's played by zhang yimou. before he directed the beijing olympics opening, he starred in a terra-cotta warrior (1990), as a qin general who falls for one of the girls the emperor sends to find the elixir of life. she slips him the elixir. the emperor finds out and has him sealed alive in clay. in the 1930s, gong li shows up and he wakes up (wikipedia).

and the last scene? zhang yimou, in modern clothes, restoring warriors down in the real pit, while gong li walks past as a tourist. that one wasn't a set. they shot it in the actual pit.

zhang yimou in a cap among terracotta warriors, a still from the 1990 film a terra-cotta warrior
back in the pit. he looks like he remembers something.

is there a real person inside the terracotta warriors?

growing up in xi'an, every kid heard the same rumor: the warriors look so real because they are real. living soldiers, coated in mud and fired like pots. the movie does exactly that to zhang yimou, so i've never known which came first, the rumor or the film. maybe they just look too alive. or maybe, the scarier version went, the real ones are still down there, somewhere nobody has dug yet.

the boring answer: no. the bodies were built up from coils of clay, about 10 cm a day, and they're hollow. when researchers looked inside, there wasn't even a frame holding them up, let alone a person. each one weighed 150 to 200 kg and was fired whole for hours at over 900°c (the met).

a headless terracotta warrior standing next to one that still has its head, in pit 1
headless, hollow, nobody home. photo: gary todd, cc0

the less boring answer: the emperor's own tomb, about a mile away, has never been opened. the old histories say it holds rivers of mercury. in 2016, scientists measured the air above the burial mound and found mercury levels well above the area's normal, which they say makes those old records more believable (scientific reports). so nobody knows what's down there. nobody's going in to check.

who actually made the terracotta army?

men, women and kids. there are real people in the clay after all, just not the whole person. pablo wasn't the first to slip into that army. the first ones got in 2,200 years ago, and they left their fingerprints.

this month, a team from the qin emperor's mausoleum museum published a study of 91 fingerprints pressed into the clay of 36 warriors, mostly on heads and arms, right where you grip wet clay. kids' fingerprint ridges sit closer together than adults', so you can roughly tell who was there. their estimate: about 45% adult men, about a third adult women, and around 22% kids under 15 (archaeology magazine).

the most famous all-male lineup in history, partly made by women and kids. the kids were probably apprentices. and skilled potters smoothed their work and wiped their prints away, so the prints still there are mostly beginners who forgot to. the interns signed it.

what i dug up

i grew up in xi'an. as a kid i dug in our backyard, completely sure a clay soldier was waiting down there for me. i found an old instant-noodle wrapper.

i was annoyed about that for years. but the first time i stood close to the real ones, what got me wasn't the size. it was the soles of their shoes. the little topknots. nobody was ever going to look at the bottom of a shoe in that pit, and someone shaped it anyway. maybe a fourteen-year-old with clay on their hands, who forgot to wipe off a thumb.

the sole of a kneeling terracotta archer's shoe, covered in a fine dotted tread pattern, with red-painted armor above it
the bottom of a shoe nobody was ever meant to see.
back of a terracotta warrior's head, showing braided hair gathered into a topknot with a small clasp
the back of someone's head. somebody braided every strand.

every one of them has been standing for 2,200 years. we thought one deserved a break.

terracotta warrior figurine sitting on a toilet in full armor, typing on an open laptop on his knees
the long sit.

the long sit: a clay-look terracotta warrior in full armor, on a toilet, typing on a laptop. if he moves, he moves. nobody's going to notice.

go play.

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